Bali Hai

"There are 84 families that make up our family," Aji tells me. That would explain why everyone I've met is either a cousin, uncle or nephew. "The Brahmans used to have multiple wives. That's become too expensive." Ha touché. Aji introduces me to family member after family member at the subdued Balinese wedding reception. Each has the same reaction: Mira? I bear a striking resemblance to my cousin. Or so I'm told, we still haven't met. When they realize I'm not Mira, either because of my blue eyes or lack of a distinguishing tattoo, the questions pour out. "She's your niece?" they ask Aji Gusky. No one knew his wife Karen had a sister with kids. Until July, Karen and Gusky didn't know either.

When I found out I was coming to Southeast Asia, I decided to look up my mom's half sister in Bali. The two grew up separate, meeting only once many years ago. Karen backpacked to Indonesia after college, met a Balinese man and made a life for herself there. So how to find her? I did what anyone my generation would do - I googled her. I had no idea what I'd find. Part of me thought I may just end up wandering around Bali asking for the white woman, no not Liz Gilbert, who'd married a Brahman. That much I knew. But of course Google wins again. Search 'Karen Waddell Bali' and you find her food blog "Kitchen Insurgency," her company Bali Good Food's website, and quite a few (praising) reviews. I shot off an email saying hello from her niece in CA and hey do you want to grab coffee when I drop into Bali. The response? Utter exuberance.

And the love and warmth have just kept coming. Aunt Karen and Aji (uncle) Gusky as they are affectionately known now invited me to stay with them. What had been planned as a week trip has turned into 3 weeks. I really may be living a dream. A lovely house in Sanur with a pool, Internet, A/C, and a beach. Two maids and a driver. Delicious food at one of their 5 restaurants. A three-night stay at their pristine inn in Ubud where the beds really are the most comfortable in Asia. Hindu temples galore. A week in the Gilis getting scuba certified. And family. Lots and lots of incredible, welcoming, generous family. Not to mention Aunt Karen is great! One of the most accomplished and yet down-to-earth beings I've ever met.

Needless to say my time here has been perfect. I leave on Monday for Cambodia via Bangkok but I'll be back in Bali for Christmas with family :)

Happy Thanksgiving to you all! Please enjoy some extra turkey and fixins for me.